Hike Cream Puff Peak Loop Bridger-Teton National Forest, WY

Sep 02, 2022 — Yep, naturally I chose to hike Cream Puff Peak because the name was too good to pass up. Plus, I figured I could try to include a few other peaks along the ridge thinking it might give me a nice introduction to the Gros Ventre Wilderness, an area I've never been. This cluster of peaks is separated from the taller and more unique summits of the Gros Ventre Range, but I still enjoyed myself on this pretty remote and colorful hike. Peak 10013, the highest peak on this hike, gave me a nice vantage point toward the taller Gros Ventre summits as well as toward the Tetons. I decided to go for the high point first, counter-clockwise, taking on the ridge from north to south. The road leading from pavement on Hwy 191 might be difficult for anything less than a crossover vehicle, but it's only about a quarter mile of extra walking if you can't make it.

The poorly-marked trailhead offered a small map which included a dotted line for Cream Puff Peak, so I was looking forward to having a trail on the way back. Earlier I'd done some research looking for trails I could use to best access the ridgeline, so this mysterious dotted line was familiar (more on this dotted line later, but spoiler: it's incorrectly drawn). However, no official trails existed on the map for reaching the ridgeline farther north to access Peak 10013. Fortunately I'd scoured satellite view to exhaustion during the research phase of this hike and did find what seemed like a trail carved through the landscape, so I wasn't too concerned.

I started along the Cow Creek Trail, which wrapped around the meadowy slopes and through forest as it worked toward the Cow Creek drainage. It then ascended at a pleasant grade to the north, some nice views and the well-maintained trail giving me hope for my proposed route being in mostly good shape. I reached the northern base of Peak 8566, a bump I'd hike on my way out later, and the views opened up expansively. I was immediately impressed by the colors of the landscape. The trail dropped a couple hundred feet and I noted some sort of permanent hunting camp settlement, a cluster of canvas-topped structures below. Now I understood why the trail was in such good shape. I reached a junction that had a small "Trail" sign pointing to the right, the left leading down to the hunting camp.

Past the hunting camp junction the trail became less worn, but it was still good. Shortly after, just as the forest became more dense, I reached another fork, this one without a marker. Later I learned the left option was the way to Cream Puff Peak, but the more obvious option took me to the right, descending slightly and away from the ridgeline. Although not marked on any maps, this ended up being the trail I'd noted on satellite view and I hoped it would take me to the ridgeline. It was actually in great shape, and even though my route line may look wiggly and bushwhacky on my attached map, this is actually a section of trail that seems to be cleared with some frequency. I did find it odd that the trail made so many twists and turns as it made its way through the forest, but was happy to learn I wouldn't be bushwhacking since this would have been a bit of a gnarly forest walk without the trail.

Too soon, the trail exited the shade and serenity and entered a meadow. I had absolutely no trouble following the trail through the meadow as it ascended more steeply to the north toward the ridgeline above, but it was very overgrown and I often found myself head-high in weeds. Somehow I didn't get off-trail even once though, and I assume the brush is more tame when summer vegetation isn't at its peak. I pushed through, making relatively quick progress. The trail was good all the way until the last quarter mile to the ridgeline, though from here it was easy walking, the tall overgrowth now reduced to just grasses.

Finally on the ridge crest, I headed north toward Peak 10013. A social trail surprised me, continuing all the way up to about 9400', where it petered out and I was left to ascend on a grassy slope and easy Class 2 talus to gain the summit. I stuck around on the top to enjoy the lovely views toward the taller Gros Ventre peaks to the northeast before backtracking along the ridgeline and starting over to my next peaks, unnamed Peak 9338 and Peak 9720. Neither were memorable lumps, but the views were really good most of the way. A social trail hinted at its existence once in a while, but it was mostly ankle-high brush walking for the ridge traverse. I was hoping for tundra, but fortunately the brush was never annoying. There were a couple of steeper sections of both ascent and descent, but following the ridgeline was trivial. The final climb to Peak 9720 was quite steep, but grassy enough to have plenty of footing. Peak 9720 had two grassy summit knolls of similar height.

Next up was Cream Puff Peak, which I could see just to the south. It actually looked a little underwhelming compared to the views I had so far for the day. In fact, it was the lowest of the four summits so I'm not totally sure why it's the named summit on the rideline. There was some light rockiness on the way down from Peak 9720, and then I picked up a social trail leading from its saddle to Cream Puff Peak. This trail led over a false summit and up to the high point. The view south was pretty nice, the massive drop into the Hoback River drainage an impressive sight, with the mountains to the south rising dramatically. The Cream Puff Peak summit register seemed to indicate that many come from the north to access the peak. Maybe the trail is better from that direction? Coming from that way would make accessing Peak 10013 more difficult though, so I was okay with my choices.

Now for the descent to complete the loop and return to the Cow Creek Trail. You'll notice on my map I have a line leading east from the southern summit of Peak 9720. While I didn't go this way, I drew a route line that closely follows a clear trail on satellite view. In hindsight, I wish I'd taken this route rather than my later descent from Cream Puff Peak. My hunch is the dotted line marked on maps is no longer a maintained trail, but perhaps re-routed along the east ridge of Peak 9720 and never updated on maps. The route I took leaves the ridgeline and makes a descending traverse below Peak 9720, wrapping around to join the remains of the Cream Puff Peak Trail. Along the way I did encounter hints of a trail, but it was so overgrown that I sort of stopped caring about keeping along the old trailbed. The alternative is re-gaining Peak 9720 and using the (what looks like a much better trail) to descend, which I recommend at least trying. Not doing the bushwhack way I went may increase the vertical gain stat on my hike by a few hundred, but I honestly probably did the same amount of vertical by dropping up and down on the hilly nonsense while sidehilling anyway, so it's probably a wash and better to just take the east ridge option from Peak 9720. I included photos of my sidehill so you can see what to expect. To satiate my curiosity, I took a couple of minutes to scout the east ridge descent option, finding the trail in excellent shape for at least the first quarter mile.

Back on the Cow Creek Trail with my water long-depleted, I took the irresponsible last-minute choice to hike the short detour to get to Peak 8566, an insignificant bump with some nice views. There was even a hint of a social trail up its northern slope.