Hike Devils Thumb Newberry Mountains BLM, NV

Mar 19, 2022 — With a few hours to kill before sunset after doing the nearby Castle Peaks, Chris and I searched for a worthy objective with some scrambling that I would otherwise not want to do without my burly and fearless companion. Devils Thumb fit the bill, being only a short drive off the highway. This peak is known to locals as the "Real Devils Thumb", since Devils Thumb is also a name given to a minor peak near Spirit Mountain to the south, though this peak is more thumb-like than the latter.

We took Golden Rod Snyder Road here (35.3816, -114.89825) on the way out, and while it's less distance it's got some deep sand and rougher sections. I recommend taking this much better road sequence to reach where we started: Start east along Loran Station Road here (35.31298, -114.88178) and pass an old LORAN station, then turning left here (35.31743, -114.77761) and continue northwest to here (35.33695, -114.80425), where a right turn leads along Golden Rod Snyder Road.

From our parking spot in a wash we headed north, going up and over a low ridge to enter a drainage. This drainage continued north, and we followed it for a short time until we started making our way up to the southern ridge of Devils Thumb. The views here of the peak were great, Lake Mohave visible in the distance behind it. We scrambled up Class 2 loose terrain to gain the base of Devils Thumb's southern cliff face, and then wrapped to the left around the feature. We were looking for what is apaprently the easiest way up the very fortified summit block.

Now on the west side of the peak, we spotted what we were looking for: a fixed line established by Harlan Stockman. This rope would facilitate gaining the first 15 feet of the peak, by far the most difficult portion. Without the rope, this section would be a tough 15-foot set of technical moves (Chris thought roughly a 5.10), or as Harlan reports, would require a rope lasso. Much thanks, Harlan! I rated this route Class 4 with the assuption that this fixed line is there when you visit.

After climbing the rope, we scrambled on Class 2/3 terrain to the base of the Class 4 pitch, characterized by an ascending traverse on small boulders lodged into the volcanic face. If the small boulders were guaranteed to stay in place, this would be an excellent climb. However, the general nature of the volcanic rock and the fact that some of these boulders felt hollow/wobbly meant I was happy Chris could toss me so webbing to keep me feeling secure. Past the crux, a short Class 2/3 ledge led to a final Class 3 pull over the rim and onto the flat summit block of Devils Thumb.