Hike Picacho Peak Chocolate Mountains BLM, CA

Apr 18, 2020 — In the time it took me to write the trip report since failing after my first time attempting Picacho Peak, I had two anxiety-inducing dreams about it. The peak haunted me. I wanted to try again, so I recruited braver-than-I Lorenzo and his friends Jose and Rob to give it another go a few months later, and we succeeded. You might notice a change in photo lighting throughout the photo progression below since there's a combination of photos from two trips.

Also, I should be responsible and note that this is not the popular Picacho Peak in Arizona, which is a far less serious endeavor.

The main Picacho Road is in great shape, except for a sandy section (though a Prius was able to get through it). A very bad road leads from the mouth of Burro Wash to the north rim, so I recommend continuing up Burro Wash until a dryfall. Even so, less than mid-clearance won't be to make it all the way up the wash. The turn-off for Burro Wash is located here: 32.97845, -114.6366.

We set out along the standard route, a small dryfall at the end of Burro Wash taking us into a major wash. A small section of boulder-hopping up the wash lasted just long enough to be fun, and then we encountered a short slot canyon. Picacho Peak's incredible cliffs inched closer as we continued through the wash. A bit under a mile into the hike, a social trail leaves the main wash and follows a ridge on the right, heading generally northwest. It heads through the desert on generally flat terrain for a bit. The social trail then ascends just to the left of a bouldery gully on a steep slope to a saddle just southwest of Picacho Peak. The trail isn't initially clear here, so just make sure to keep left of the bouldery gully, or you'll add some extra work. Once at the ridge, we gawked at a couple of the incredible desert towers to the west. We continued north along this pretty ridge, and then side-hilled along the slopes below Picacho's impressive cliffs. The social trail is obvious here. The Class 2 boulder-filled gully ahead that's necessary to get to the notch separating Picacho Peak from its lower neighbor tower was the destination. This notch is pivotal in getting above the well-fortified lower cliffs of Picacho Peak. What a weird and wonderful route.

We headed up the Class 2 gully to the impressive notch, where we were nestled between the sub-pinnacles to the left, and a short Class 3 scramble on the right to get out of the notch. A vertigo-inducing view to the north had us completely impressed. Once up the short Class 3 section, we continued ascending on a ramp. Unfortunately, someone has painted arrows on the walls of the route. It's straightforward enough of a route without the need for graffiti, but people suck sometimes. The ramp led up to the infamous first wooden ladder used to access a ledge. Without the ladder, this move would be doable, but difficult. Just after the ladder, we encountered a Class 4 gap in the ledge. Many appear to try to protect this traverse, but we chose to down-climb into the gap, and then climb out the other side. Lorenzo, naturally, jumped the gap. I don't recommend this. I'll note that it's likely only a 20 foot drop below, and not just open air into oblivion. Quite an interesting little section, we thought.

We continued along the ledge, stunning views of the area as we continued. There were absolutely terrific natural switchbacks bringing us higher and higher on a series of ledges. Although not carved by humans (I assume), the ledges used for this section of the route seemed like they were made for human access, wide and steep and walkable. I had a blast ascending this section, honestly. Eventually, we encountered a second ladder, a metal one with a fairly scary drop off to the left. This section would likely not be climbable without the ladder - definitely moderate Class 5. So thank you to whoever brought this ladder up here.

Just after the metal ladder, we rounded a corner and were on one of the most incredible ridgelines I've ever experienced. We felt like we were in thin air, 360 views in all directions with sheer cliffs below us, the view down to the desert below unobstructed.

We continued along the ridge, excited to be close to the summit, but were stopped by a horrifying cliff face. This face was the north side of a false summit, and required getting over it, rappelling down its other side, and then walking up to the true summit. On my first attempt with Matt, this cliff face was on our radar, but we weren't expecting this. Other trip reports called this move Class 4, with one person even saying Class 3. Okay. Were we missing something? A slightly overhanging couple of moves with a 1,000 foot drop directly to the left does not warrant Class 4 status in my book. Seriously people, be reasonable, it's Class 5. Maybe the moves aren't hard, but the consequence is sure death and the move is slightly overhung on dubious rock. I thought it was a bit funny how the route felt a bit accessible because of the marked green arrows and stationary ladders, but this objectively dangerous spot was left raw. Matt and I entertained the idea briefly of free soloing it, but even the thought had us both riddled with anxiety.

On my second visit to Picacho Peak, Lorenzo scrambled up to the crux, agreed it was Class 5, and laughed briefly at the fact that the rock had the potential to be quite crumbly. He tossed a rope over the top of a protrusion on top of the rock feature and through a small crack that felt safe enough to use as an anchor for belaying. It definitely required some thinking and I'd go as far as call the move 5.4.

Once above the crux, we rappelled off the south side. You'll need to ascend this rope on the way back, so definitely don't pull the rope or you'll be stuck climbing the ascent (likely a 5.8). It's the only way back after all. I recommend bringing a bolt tool if you've got one. At least one of the available bolts is looking a little rusty. We walked along a well-defined trail to the Class 2 summit block. Incredible peak.