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Feb 26, 2022 — During my initial researh around Big Bend National Park a few weeks ago, my eyes stopped abruptly on a darkly-shaded set of contours on a small lump that seemed to be totally overlooked. It wasn't within the main summits around the Chisos Basin, but intead on its own a little to the south. Further research led me to learn this peak has been provisionally named "Picacho Peak", but I couldn't locate much information about getting to its summit. I decided it looked too cool on a topo map to pass up, even if it meant a potential failure. Fortunately, I was able to reach the summit, and an excellent one it was.
I started out from the Blue Creek Overlook Parking area, dropping down along the Blue Creek Trail for a few hundred feet until it reached an early 20th century ruin, the Homer Wilson Blue Creek Ranch. From the cute remains, I started along the well-cairned Dodson Trail. The Dodson Trail is better known as being part of the long backpacking loop that circles above and below the South Rim, but I'd only be on it for a few miles in order to access Picacho Peak. The Dodson trail wrapped around the base of a minor peak called Carousel Mountain, dropping in and out of washes and then ascending at a nice pace to the east. The landscape began to open up and the views were really nice as I neared a minor saddle about 2/3 of the way to Picacho Peak. From this saddle I could see the intimidating sheer west face of the peak, which got me pretty excited. I was pretty sure the peak's northeast ridge would be the most viable option based on the otherwise impossible-looking cliffs guarding the summit. Fortunately, the northeast ridge was also the most easy to access spot based on where the trail led.
I continued along the Dodson Trail from the saddle, which dropped a few hundred feet as it descended to a junction with the Smoky Creek Trail. Once at this junction I had to decide the best way to approach the northeast ridge of Picacho Peak. You'll see two route on my attached map. The western one was my descent route, and it was more brushy and quite loose. Though it's a bit more direct, I definitely don't recommend it as an ascent for those unpleasant reasons, and I honestly would probably recommend you take the eastern route out and back. The added bonus of the eastern peak is that I got some excellent views of Picacho Peak on my way up. From the Smoky Creek Junction, I continued east along the Dodson Trail, which entered a gravel wash. I left this wash when the norther ridge of Picacho Peak became visible and I ascended the steep and somewhat brushy slope to gain the ridge. The ridgeline was overall mostly brush-free, and I could ignore the bits of annoyance because Picacho Peak's summit looked very cool and inviting. Some Class 2 later and a bit of side-hilling on the right side of the ridge crest to avoid unnecessary rock outcroppings and I was at the base of the peak.
From here the summit pitch didn't actually look all that bad! I noted two possible ascent routes, both meeting back up about a hundred feet from the base. Keeping left would result in Class 2/2+ with some brush, but directly up the spine was lots of fun Class 3 on surprisingly solid rock and a lot less brush. Once the routes met up again, a fun Class 2/3 slab continued up along the spine, minimally exposed and quite nice. Past the slab was some light Class 2 rock-hopping until a short flat section and then the crux. The crux of the route is really only a single Class 3+ (some may say Class 4) with a nice hand hold. It's only about 4 feet, but the drops on either side are a little daunting. A fall would likely not result in a serious tumble, but it's still a little heady. Past this move, some light scrambling got me to the summit.
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