Oct 06, 2018 — The route to Little Squaretop follows most of the route up to the more popular Organ Needle, but leaves that route and follows a more difficult, dangerous, and unmarked route to this lesser-visited peak in the Organ Mountains. I would say it's Class 3+ because the moves are a bit thoughtful at times, but the consequence of a fall isn't severe.
Starting from the end of the Fillmore Canyon Trail, follow a well-worn (though unofficial) social trail up the northern ridge above the falls, and follow this trail up into the Organ Mountains. The trail becomes progressively steeper the higher you go. As soon as you're about 500 feet from the Organ Needle summit, you will see that the trail enters a canyon, tall walls on either side of you and a tree marking the start of this canyon. From this spot, look to the left and go around or over the rock rib. From here, you'll see a small Class 3 gully that leads to higher rock ground and a couple of big pine trees. Continue past the pine trees and climb (Class 3) over another rock rib. From the top of this one, you can see another rock rib directly in front of you, a very small gully in the way. Get over this next rib and traverse the rock until you get to Class 2+ slabs that lead up about 100 feet to the saddle of Organ Needle and Little Squaretop. Note that there is also a forested gully just past the slabs if you prefer, but the slabs are lovely fun. You'll be able to see the notch separating Little Squaretop and Little Squaretop Massif (to the north of Little Squaretop) from the saddle. This notch is your short-term goal. Drop down from the saddle and follow the rock wall on the right on grassy terrain until you get to a Class 3 climb just before a big bush. Climb up this Class 3 move and you'll get to another grassy ledge with another rock wall where there's a couple of pine trees. Find the best way you can up this rock face (Class 3+) and then you'll be at the gully below the notch between Little Squaretop and Massif. Head up the left side of this vegetation-choked gully on rocks and scramble up Class 3 stuff to the summit block of Little Squaretop. Take in the views of the jagged peaks of the Organ Mountains.
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