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Hike Little Squaretop in Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument, New Mexico - Stav is Lost

Hike Little Squaretop Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument, NM

Class 3 6.5 miles 3700 gain 4-6 hrs Out and Back
Effort
Beauty
Personality
Solitude
DirectionsRoute MapDownload GPX

Oct 06, 2018 — The route to Little Squaretop follows most of the route up to the more popular Organ Needle, but leaves that route and follows a more difficult, dangerous, and unmarked route to this lesser-visited peak in the Organ Mountains. I would say it's Class 3+ because the moves are a bit thoughtful at times, but the consequence of a fall isn't severe.

Starting from the end of the Fillmore Canyon Trail, follow a well-worn (though unofficial) social trail up the northern ridge above the falls, and follow this trail up into the Organ Mountains. The trail becomes progressively steeper the higher you go. As soon as you're about 500 feet from the Organ Needle summit, you will see that the trail enters a canyon, tall walls on either side of you and a tree marking the start of this canyon. From this spot, look to the left and go around or over the rock rib. From here, you'll see a small Class 3 gully that leads to higher rock ground and a couple of big pine trees. Continue past the pine trees and climb (Class 3) over another rock rib. From the top of this one, you can see another rock rib directly in front of you, a very small gully in the way. Get over this next rib and traverse the rock until you get to Class 2+ slabs that lead up about 100 feet to the saddle of Organ Needle and Little Squaretop. Note that there is also a forested gully just past the slabs if you prefer, but the slabs are lovely fun. You'll be able to see the notch separating Little Squaretop and Little Squaretop Massif (to the north of Little Squaretop) from the saddle. This notch is your short-term goal. Drop down from the saddle and follow the rock wall on the right on grassy terrain until you get to a Class 3 climb just before a big bush. Climb up this Class 3 move and you'll get to another grassy ledge with another rock wall where there's a couple of pine trees. Find the best way you can up this rock face (Class 3+) and then you'll be at the gully below the notch between Little Squaretop and Massif. Head up the left side of this vegetation-choked gully on rocks and scramble up Class 3 stuff to the summit block of Little Squaretop. Take in the views of the jagged peaks of the Organ Mountains.

PEAKS ON HIKE
Elevation (ft) / Prominence (ft)
Peaks on hike
Elevation
Prominence
1
Little Squaretop
8919 ft
n/a rise

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photo protector Starting out from the Fillmore Canyon Trailhead. Follow the official route to Organ Needle for most of the way.
Starting out from the Fillmore Canyon Trailhead. Follow the official route to Organ Needle for most of the way.
photo protector Squaretop is the obvious sideways square shape, and Little Squaretop is the smaller pointy square to the right of it.
Squaretop is the obvious sideways square shape, and Little Squaretop is the smaller pointy square to the right of it.
photo protector Continuing up past Fillmore Canyon, along the official route to Organ Needle.
Continuing up past Fillmore Canyon, along the official route to Organ Needle.
photo protector Looking back toward La Cueva and the Fillmore Canyon Trailhead.
Looking back toward La Cueva and the Fillmore Canyon Trailhead.
photo protector No caption.
photo protector No caption.
photo protector No caption.
photo protector No caption.
photo protector The route is fairly easy to follow for most of the way up. You can see the dark canyon/gully ahead where you split for either Organ Needle or Little Squaretop.
The route is fairly easy to follow for most of the way up. You can see the dark canyon/gully ahead where you split for either Organ Needle or Little Squaretop.
photo protector No caption.
photo protector No caption.
photo protector No caption.
photo protector Approaching the dark canyon/gully where you leave the trail.
Approaching the dark canyon/gully where you leave the trail.
photo protector At this junction, before entering the dark canyon/gully and a big tree greets you, turn left and walk around a big rock fin.
At this junction, before entering the dark canyon/gully and a big tree greets you, turn left and walk around a big rock fin.
photo protector Just after the rock fin, you'll see a jumble of rocks Follow the small and obvious gully (center of this photo) up to the pine trees (you can see the tops here).
Just after the rock fin, you'll see a jumble of rocks Follow the small and obvious gully (center of this photo) up to the pine trees (you can see the tops here).
photo protector After the gully, under the pine trees. Go between the two rightmost trees in this photo and scramble up a Class 3 rock fin.
After the gully, under the pine trees. Go between the two rightmost trees in this photo and scramble up a Class 3 rock fin.
photo protector Taken on top of the rock fit scrambled up in the previous photo. Follow that line of green grasses (the second rock fin).
Taken on top of the rock fit scrambled up in the previous photo. Follow that line of green grasses (the second rock fin).
photo protector Looking back from the top of the second rock fin toward the big pine trees (middle) and the dark canyon/gully (diagonal splurt of brush on the right).
Looking back from the top of the second rock fin toward the big pine trees (middle) and the dark canyon/gully (diagonal splurt of brush on the right).
photo protector After scrambling up the second rock fin, head up Class 2 slabs. This photo is looking down the Class 2 slabs.
After scrambling up the second rock fin, head up Class 2 slabs. This photo is looking down the Class 2 slabs.
photo protector Drop off the slabs onto flat ground. This photo is looking back at the slabs 
(diagonal line in the center).
Drop off the slabs onto flat ground. This photo is looking back at the slabs (diagonal line in the center).
photo protector From the top of the Class 2 slabs looking toward the remainder of the route. Head down to the bush in the center of this photo and scramble Class 3 stuff to the left of a black stain on the rock.
From the top of the Class 2 slabs looking toward the remainder of the route. Head down to the bush in the center of this photo and scramble Class 3 stuff to the left of a black stain on the rock.
photo protector The big bush from the last photo is right behind me here - to the left of this black stained rock is the spot I scrambled up.
The big bush from the last photo is right behind me here - to the left of this black stained rock is the spot I scrambled up.
photo protector Just above the scramble. Head behind these trees on the flat grassy section and look on the left for a short Class 3 route up to the next level. I don't know the easiest choice, but there seemed to be a few spots that would work. This was likely the single hardest move of the day.
Just above the scramble. Head behind these trees on the flat grassy section and look on the left for a short Class 3 route up to the next level. I don't know the easiest choice, but there seemed to be a few spots that would work. This was likely the single hardest move of the day.
photo protector At the next level, looking toward the remainder of the route. Head up the green gully, keeping to the left to avoid bushes. Little Squaretop is the left peak, Little Squaretop Massif is the right peak.
At the next level, looking toward the remainder of the route. Head up the green gully, keeping to the left to avoid bushes. Little Squaretop is the left peak, Little Squaretop Massif is the right peak.
photo protector Looking back before starting up the gully.
Looking back before starting up the gully.
photo protector At the notch, looking up left toward Little Squaretop. Class 2+/3.
At the notch, looking up left toward Little Squaretop. Class 2+/3.
photo protector Almost at the summit, looking down toward the notch between Little Squaretop and Squaretop Massif.
Almost at the summit, looking down toward the notch between Little Squaretop and Squaretop Massif.
photo protector Little Squaretop summit block on the right, Organ Needle in the center, Squaretop Massif on the left out of frame.
Little Squaretop summit block on the right, Organ Needle in the center, Squaretop Massif on the left out of frame.
photo protector View back toward La Cueva/Fillmore Canyon Trailhead.
View back toward La Cueva/Fillmore Canyon Trailhead.
photo protector View northwest toward the Needles and Rabbit Ears.
View northwest toward the Needles and Rabbit Ears.
photo protector One more shot from the summit of Little Squretop Massif and Organ Needle.
One more shot from the summit of Little Squretop Massif and Organ Needle.

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